Trip 2014: East Greenland

Around Milne Land in the biggest fjord of the world (05.08.2014 – 05.09.2014)

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After one year abstinence from the arctic, we will be back in the high north this summer. The Scoresby Sound, the longest fjord system on earth, at the east coast of Greenland will be our destination. Ittoqortormiut is the starting point to or 600km long circumnavigation of Milne Land with our kayaks. In 2007 Markus has been in this area but had to brake off the circumnavigation because of too much pack ice in that summer. This year we come back with some more experiences and with a team of very experienced paddlers. Together we will follow the way along dramatic icebergs, steep rugged mountains, which rises more than 2000m vertical from sea level, between felds of drift ice and braking glaciers into one of the last completely uninhabited areas of the world. With luck we could meet narwhales, musk ox or the king of the arctic.

23.04.2014: The team 2014

After all fight and our accommodations in Reykjavik und Ittoqortormiut are booked, now for the frst time all participants have met in Braunschweig some days ago for coordination of the next steps of the project. In contrast to the last years, when we travelled mostly in pairs, this year the group has grown with two additional experienced paddlers.

17.05.2014: Energie saving

Up to now, there are no cooking pots with heat exchangers on the market with a volume of more than 3 liters. Therefore Benno has constructed from parts of MSR something that fts to our 4 liter pots. First comparative measurements shows that we can spare nearly 30% of fuel. With this an extra coffee at the afternoon should be possible.

27.05.2014: The fleet is complete

Beneath our arctic-experienced boats from Prijon (Barracuda and Kodiak) this year one Storm GT from Current Design and a Tempest 165 from Wilderness Systems belongs to the feet. Like the other years we faith in kayaks made from strong PE. Because a damage of the kayaks during the shipment or the trip could cause a quick end of the adventure.

23.06.2014: Slowly the ice is braking

On the ice-chart from the 20th of June we see that the ice in the mouth of the fjord slowly begins to brake. The green colour means a maximum of 40% of ice-coverage. In this area it could be possible for us to get through the ice with our kayaks. The completely grey area is still solid closed ice very good for travelling with dogsledges but not for kayaking. We have 45 days left until we want to slide our kayaks into the water. We are very curious!

29.06.2014: Tightness test

With our new Palm Aleutian Drysuit, that we got from Wassersport Kornau, we made a frst extensive funktion- and tightness test on the last weekend at the Okerstausee. Special attention we had for the very comfortable neck seal made from neopren. All swimming and diving tests couldn't harm anything to the drysuits. So for Greenland we are now dressed dry, warm and chic.

04.07.2014: Conic drybags

All drybags we found on the market with the special form for the nose and stern of kayaks have not the durability we need. So together with Peter Jarmer from Helmi Sport we thought about the best possible construction, so that they would last longer even under extensive use and harder conditions. Mr. Jamer made us these conic drybags and one for our rife, that we would have on top oft he kayak during the trip, from strong plastic that fts best into our kayaks. The very stressed tip has an extra layer. In the opening area we have a more fexible material for a better sealing. For our big expedition-kayaks the size of the drybags was modifed that no space gets lost and the number of drybags per kayak is reduced. This makes it much easier for transportation all equipment from the water to the camp. We will report about our experiences.

14.07.2014: The kayaks will be packed

Last saturday we met in Cologne for the traditional boat-packing. Its time now, because in 5 days the boats with all our equipment are getting onto their journey. From Aalborg they sail onboard of a freighter via Island up to Ittoqortoormiit. So all our equipment and food for 4 1/2 weeks have to get into the kayaks. At the beginning the mountain of boxes and cartons looked much higher than the kayaks itself. But after multiple packing in and out at the end everything disappears under our deckhatches. Beside our tents, sleeping bags and cocking pots we store 30kg spagetti, 12kg pemmikan, 6kg cheese, 12kg chocolate, 40kg muesli, 12Kg muesli bars and 8 rolls of toiletpaper. With up to 93kg now the kayaks shut lay stabil in the water. But we know: with every meal the kayaks are getting lighter. With that in mind every meal will taste twice as good.

16.07.2014 Graveyard of fuelpumps

During the last funktiontest and cleaning of the MSR stove I realized a crack of the pumphousing. In the last 15 years this is already the third pump that died this way, so I spoke with the outdoorshop of my conifdence SFU in Braunschweig. Stefan Bode reported from similar experiences and from a special treasure he has and what he would give us for the expedition. Many years ago someone copied such a pump from aluminium and brass. A little bit more weight but in return indestructable. This special one of a kind get some new sealings from me and now will get take part on our trip.

18.07.2014: The kayaks are on the way

After a long night drive, we reached Aalborg and begin by clarifying the formalities to fnish packing the boats for shipment about 9:00 clock. Almost all the baggage that we have on our expedition that will paddle things that we will carry on the tour and packing material for the return of the boats must be stowed. Around 11:00 clock all is packed and the truck disappears with our boats in the shipping area. Here they are loaded into containers and later go on 26.7.2014 on the trip to Greenland. The good pieces are scheduled to arrive on August 03 in Greenland and we see them hopefully when we arrived on 06/08/2014 and is intact in Ittoqqortoormiit again.

05.08.2014: First stop: Iceland

After three quarters of a year of preparation, we just can start now. At half past eight three of us are sitting in the car towards Hamburg and eight hours later, we reached Reykjavik with the plane. In the evening we enjoy the Icelandic cuisine in a fsh restaurant at the harbor, before we will start tomorrow in the early morning to take the plane to Greenland.

06.08.2014: Flying and arriving

We leave Reykjavik with a small propeller plane in the direction Akureyri, from there it goes further with an even smaller 6-persons fiers. In perfect weather we land on a gravel road in Nerlerit Inaat on the local international airport, which consists of three barracks. Scheduled welcomes us an hour later, the helicopter pilot Ole and points us to our seats in the helicopter. Then he fies us over the turquoise waters of the Hurry-fjord, from which extends sometimes a large iceberg, to the heliport Ittoqqortoomiit. We shoulder our little luggage and walked to Guesthouse of Nanuk-Travel, that Markus knows from his frst voyage. As we pass by the offce later, it seemed that of our two large-caliber guns only one is there. They offered us a smaller caliber, but we can not stop polar bears in an emergency with the small gun. Until tomorrow, the second rife probably will be there again, we are excited. Before the container of the supermarket we checked our boats and at frst glance everything looks undamaged. Relieved, we have them still in the care of the store and go shopping once, cook together in our Guesthousekitchen and end the day comfortably. Tomorrow we will finally go on the water.

07.08.2014: The frst paddle strokes

At 8 o'clock sharp we are in glorious sunshine at the gates of the Royal Arctic Line and received our boats. At the nearby beach we begin to sort out the luggage and stuffng it into the boats. At 10 o´clock we get from Nanu Travel offce the missing gun. Especially for us someone is driven up the 50 kilometers to Constable Pynt by motor boat to fetch it. Under the watchful eyes of locals we sort even to 14 o´clock until everything has found its place in the boats. Then we push the boats at no wind and bright sunshine in the crystal clear water of the Scoresby Sound. It fows along the gentle slopes of Roscoe Bjerge, where are still large areas covered with snow. After three hours we finish the first stage, because we want to test the equipment and the rifes thoroughly. After a first extensive spaghetti pemmican spree we fall in the sleeping bags at 23 o´clock.

08.08.2014: The ghost town

At 6 o´clock the sun burns on the tent, so that we get up early today and were sitting at 10 o´clock in the boats already. After three quarters of an hour we landed in Cape Hope at an abandoned settlement. Between the dilapidated huts we fnd oil drums and waste of all kinds. On the shelves of the supermarket are standing still 2 bottles of ketchup. We cross the 8 km wide Hurry Fjord and steer on the rocky beach despite the breaking waves. Again, we fnd a lot of garbage that have left the locals there on their hunting trips. After 25 km trip we discover a small place where we can build our camp. Surprisingly, Bernard has to realize that the day hatch is swamped in the surf. Fortunately, the granola bars have taken no harm. At dinner we enjoy the view over huge icebergs across the steep mountains of the Volquart-Boons-Kyst, while a tiny cruise ship behind the icebergs makes its way.

09.08.2014: Musk oxen and high surf

Already at 9:30 o´clock we stand today on the steep beach, then continues along with the upcoming water into the fjord inside. We slip over the round stones with the boats directly into the approximately 1 meter high surf wave, which is facing the shore. The next few hours it goes in calm, sunny weather past numerous giant icebergs. In the distance we hear threatening banging on the ice several times. On the heights on the shore we can see musk oxen graze peacefully there. After driving a little, the hills are fat and there are hardly any snow felds. Several times we landed and tried to fnd a river with clear drinking water. By the upstream steep sand beaches every time we have to go through a high surf zone to get to the shore. The frst time it comes to a wet exit. Because of the high waves during the day and the fresh wind quite early we wanted to get in the warm sleeping bag.

10.08.2014: Midsummer in Greenland

The slight tailwind, we were still had in the morning, goes to sleep at noon. The sun burns on our dry suits so that we get strong sweat. On a glassy sea, we pass bizarre ice sculptures shining in the sun. After landing, we use these Greenland midsummer for a quick dip in the icy waters. At dinner the mosquitoes descend on us. We prepare everything for an early start. Each loaded his boat with muesli bars, nuts and chocolate, because we have to go a 50 km trip over to Milne Land tomorrow. We hope the weather holds.

11.08.2014: Musk ox and polar bear

Shortly before eight o´clock we sit in the boats and let us push from the east wind towards Milne Land. The barometer is rising very fast and the wind increases to 4 Beaufort. After an hour we decide to stop crossing, because we are afraid of getting into a storm. We return to the Jameson Land and let us drift from the strong south wind to the north. Around noon we see a herd of 6 musk oxen on a hill. We landed, get out and can observe the animals from close range. The coast is fat and we cross some areas with sandbars. As we sit in the evening together for cooking, a polar bear is running on our beach in the knee-deep water. We can chase him, but after half an hour we see him again on the shore only 100 meters to the north. As we get closer, he fees into deep water and swims to the west in the direction of Milne Land. For a long time we see him with our binoculars by and hope that he does not come back at night.

12.08.2014: Icebergs… icebergs… icebergs…

The night was calm, the polar bear had to do other things probably. At 9 o´clock we sit in the boats for a trip along the Jameson Land. Small mountainous hills are interrupted by small streams and more and more icebergs are along the coast. Up to 50 meters high the icy giants are rising out of the water. We imagine ourselves in a giant sculpture park. Constantly cracks and pops it around us and we see more crashes again, crashing with a roar into the water. Close to a wide creek we pull the boats up a slope after 9 hours trip. From our camp we have a fantastic view onto hundreds of icebergs of all sizes and shades.

13.08.2014: Through dense icebergs to the north

We drive today on the way north past the Nordostbugt and between a few islands to Sydkap. For hours we paddle through the huge icebergs which are close together. Meanwhile a strong West Wind begins and generates a high chop between the icebergs. After seven hours we reach the large hut on Sydkap. In the evening two seals romp before the beach, which we can watch from the window. Remain for a change, we leave our tents packed and we did enjoy a night on the bunks of the hut.

14.08.2014: Day off on Sydkap

In the morning the fjord is shining with its majestic icebergs in magical light. After a week of paddling continuously we decide to make a rest day here at the northernmost point of the journey. We use the time to review our food and arranging it in a proper order. On the table of the hut spaghetti, cereal, pemmican and so on pile up. When everything is redistributed, already three dry bags are empty. Since Bernard's boat has got some water inside in the last few days, we look for the cause. Two screws at the Skeg Conrol Unit have come loose and caused the fooding. In the afternoon we take a walk on the mountains to a clear mountain lake. From up here we have a wide view in a lagoon, where icebergs are swimming in the turquoise blue water. From the mountains, a large glacier tongue pushes up into the fjord. On the way back we encounter several polar hare, which we can approach to within a few meters. But for us there is Spaghetti with pemmican tonight again.

15.08.2014: The hardships claim their price

Well rested we leave at 8:30 o´clock the hut on Sydkap. In light headwind we are paddling towards Bear Island. After 3 hours we reach a frst beach to make a break there. This shows that the busy days left have their mark. The acute joint problems of Bernhard, which have already emerged in the last few days, despite day off and medicines are not getting better. So Bernhard decides, to separate from the group at this point and returned to paddle to Sydkap. From there, he hopes to come back with a motorboat to Ittoq. At the beach we share our food and equipment new. We say goodbye to Bernhard and still paddle 14 km further through the steep mountains of Bear Island. After we set up our camp, Elke goes up the hill to look for drinking water and fnds a small stream. Suddenly she sees a herd of musk oxen over on a slope. As the lead animal slowly descends to her, she moves back rather. After dinner we got the soothing SMS by Bernhard that he has arrived safely at Sydkap.

16.08.2014: The search for lost slipstream

Shortly after 10 o´clock we sit in the boats and start. In our small, sheltered bay, everything points to a relaxed paddling day. When we turn around the next corner, a strong westerly wind hits us and in the fjord in front of us regular, whitecaps are visible. We measure 5 Beaufort. Since changing winds were announced, we hope for better weather in the afternoon and make a break in a sheltered bay for 2 hours. When we start to cross the Øfjord, we fght against the still prevailing strong westerly wind. We shimmy us from iceberg to iceberg in the hope to fnd the lee and somewhat calmer water behind it. The water around the icebergs is so upset that we have no protection there. When we reach the northern shore, the wind does not decrease there but we run into a leestream, through which the water is still restless. Only 15km we did at the end of the day, as we set up our camp on a small island in front of the steep walls of the fjord.

17.08.2014: Camp at the glacier

Just after the start a huge seal swims to us and eyed us from a few meters distance. Since a few days, we observe that the wind that blows against us increases around noon. Because of this reason, we end today's stage at 14 o´clock already because we know in the next 40 kilometers we have no possibility of landing at the shore. For this reason we are planning for an early start tomorrow at 4 o´clock, to take advantage of the weak wind window for the long trip. So we have still time in the afternoon to visit the glacier tongue, which ends just a few meters behind our camp. From a huge icedoor, a broad glacial stream fows into the sea.

18.08.2014: In calm weather through the early morning

Middle of the night at 2 o´clock drives us the alarm from sleep. 2 hours later at 4 o´clock we sit in the boats, while on us the decreasing crescent moon shines and the sky glows bright pink. The sunset is at 6 o´clock already, but it is not dark at night. Sometimes there is very much broken ice on the fjord on the way, so we have a wide area to avoid. After a few hours submerged just meters from Elkes boat a narwhal and disappears back into the depths. Every now and then stretches a seal her nose out of the water. After 10 hours and 40 kilometers we reach the island Storö and are glad that it has been almost all day windless and sunny. From our camp, some 30 meters above the water, we have a magnifcent view over the icy scenery and see some icebergs in turning and disintegrating.

19.08.2014: Musk oxen in the morning

After the long trip from yesterday we enjoy today sleeping up to 8 o´clock. During our comfortable breakfast on our high rock terrace we enjoy the views on the countless icebergs on the fjord and a seal that there draws its tracks. When we loaded the boats around noon and on the rock we are ready to start suddenly rushes a group of musk oxen only a few meters above over the rocks. As the leading bull makes an impressive picture of the situation and eyed us from a short distance we hurry to the boats. On the water, the wind cannot decide on a direction, so that tailwind and headwind change several times. As the Øfjord is getting wider, outweighs the tailwind, so we easily reach a small island south of Storø.

20.08.2014: Between three glaciers

We follow the Rødefjord further south and cross the glacier breaking edge of Rolige Brae-, the West Fjords Glacier and Doede Brae. HerebBefore all three Glaciers collect thousands of icebergs of all sizes. Never before have we seen such density of icebergs here in Greenland. When landing at the shore we are glad to fnd a small beach where there are no very large icebergs close to this place. Between all this ice, it has become cold at night, for the frst time where we camp on Milneland. With a cup of tea we drink to today's mountain festival. We are still in time. Still 250 kilometers still separate us from Ittoq.

21.08.2014: In Fønfjord east

In the morning the tents are in the shade and we measure the inside 5° C. The temperature outside is 3 ° C. But the icebergs are in the sunlight already and are shining in ever new formations over to us and soon we are paddling through the most beautiful sculptures. The water is smooth and crystal clear and every now and then we see seabutterfies foating by. Soon we have reached the Rode Island and thus is our westernmost point. Here accumulate in shallow water house high icebergs, which we quickly pass. With the entrance to the Fønfjord we leave this dense world of ice behind us and we go east. The southern coast rises steeply and is covered by a huge ice cap. Even the northern shore is very steep, so that we paddle after 20 kilometers to a wide river bay. During dinner a polar hare meets us, who is only about 10 meters away from us, eating grass. Later on the opposite side of the stream two musk oxen appear. Hopefully they stay on the other side at night.

22.08.2014: Day off

Because we are so good at the time, we enjoy a day off today. In sunny 12°C we sit at breakfast, when a crying musk ox calf comes down the slope. Since we assume that the herd is not far, we got a little excited and we make noise with our pots. Then the calf moves on in search of his fock. We spend the morning in order to repair the steering gear at Markus Kodiak, because the original sheet is aborted shortly before we reached our camp yesterday. We do a little laundry and walk up the valley to a spectacular waterfall that has carved a deep canyon. We enjoyed the evening around the campfire.

23.08.2014: With a new steering gear along the Fønfjord

We start our maiden voyage with the newly designed rudder at the boat of Markus. During the start we are very careful, so that the plastic rudder that we have crafted from the lid of a lunchbox will get no damage. Against the wind it shows that it works very well and we are making good progress. Along both sides of the Fønfjordes we pass glacier-capped mountains with altitudes above 2000 meters. In the night we camp in the Fönbugt where many crystal clear streams from the glaciers come down from all sides.

24.08.2014: Nocturnal noises

In the middle of the night it rumbles loudly at Benno's boat right next to his tent. As quick as a fash we are all awake and looking in the rain and gloom for the cause. There is nothing more to see. But as Benno perceived a strong smell, we suspect that the single musk ox, we have seen in the evening at our shores, has visited us. In the morning it is still raining and a fresh east wind has begun. We paddle one hour against the wind and decided then to turn back, because the next berth is 20 kilometers away. The weather forecast for the next few days announced wind from the southeast, so we make another break today. Towards evening the rain stops and the wind decreases signifcantly. That is a good sign.

25.08.2014: From Fønfjord to Danmarks Ø

In the night the wind has turned to southwest so that we can let us push through the rest of the Fønfjord by the wind and waves. As we move into the Rensund, the wind falls asleep slowly and on mirror smooth water we reach the north coast of Danmark Ø. Between the snow felds we fnd a small waterfall with clean drinking water for tonight. When we land in a small bay, we are already expected by swarms of mosquitoes. During dinner we walk over the rocks on the shore, to avoid excessive blood loss through the pesky suckers.

26.08.2014: Sun over Cape Stevenson

In the morning it rains and hundreds of mosquitoes dancing on the inner tent. After breakfast, which we take in the tent because of the mosquitoes, it stops raining and we start at no wind through the meanders of the remaining Ren Sound. When we reach the open fjord, we can see Kap Leslie in the distance already, which is our target in two days. In the south rises majestically Cape Stevenson up out of the sea. We cross a few shallow bays, passing stranded icebergs. A few miles behind the Mudderbugt we fnd a fat beach with fresh water for landing. In the evening the clouds disappeared and give a view of the glacier-covered mountains in the south-free.

27.08.2014: Just before the 50km crossing

For today we want to have the last 13 kilometers to the Cape Leslie, but the weather forecasts wind 5 from east, that means headwind. At breakfast the wind was on 5 Beaufort, however, it comes from west. We are a little bit confused and even hesitate starting. When the wind dies down again shortly thereafter, we drive the last 13km with a slight tail wind along numerous small icebergs and sandbanks. In the evening the wind turns on east as announced. Since the next step is the 50 km long traverse to the east towards Jameson Land, we'll have to wait until the wind changes direction again. In 8 days our fight left, so now time is running out.

28.8.2014: In 10 1/2 hours across the fjord

After sleeping in, we note that the wind has turned back to west. Contrary to the weather report yesterday the weather forecast for today also says west wind with 1-2 Beaufort. We may be late, but we start at 12 clock noon because of the favorable prognosis. The tail wind and a swell of up to one meter allows to make good progress. On this part of the fjord much more icebergs are now in the fjord than at the beginning of our trip. After 10 1/2 hours we reach the shore of Jameson Land in the twilight. Because we need fresh water, we land on a river delta and have the boats and equipment hauling another 500 yards through the mud, before we can build our tents on a hill. Exhausted but happy we are about half-past one in the sleeping bags. In the circumnavigation of Milne Land we succeeded. If the weather remains stable, we will achieve in six days and 90 kilometers Ittoq on our own keel.

29.8.2014: Day off

After sleeping in, we start the day off today. The large river, from which we get our water, is heavily mixed with seawater at high tide. Accordingly, our breakfast coffee tastes a little brackish. After the exertion of the previous day's appetite is not really there again, so we cannot return to eat breakfast with the usual quantities. We spend the day with cooking, sorting of equipment and relaxing in the warm sun, when suddenly a white hawk appears behind the hills, fying directly towards Benno. Only when Markus and Benno move frantically, he turns and fies a meter above Benno's head away and disappears. At a short walk along the beach a black polar fox appears about 20 meters in front of us, and takes his heels over the hills immediately when he smells us. In the late afternoon there is spaghetti with pemmican. After that, we all are recovered.

30.8.2014: Meeting on the water

During the start we have to pull the boats 200 meters above the mud fat before the water is deep enough to start in the river delta. In cloudy skies and light westerly wind, we pass numerous sandbanks and leading-rivers. From a distance we see three motor boats coming to us. When they stop near us, we learn that there are a Swiss and an Icelander on board, who are searching here for a sailing tour next year. The Inuit inquire about polar bear and narwhale. Obviously, they would like to hunt. They say that the weather forecast for Ittoq announced storm on Monday. On the way, the vision becomes worse, fog comes and it starts to drizzle. When we call the evening weather forecast, the storm announcement was confrmed. For tomorrow, therefore we plan a long stage again.

31.8.2014: Through the fog to the fangsthus

The day begins like yesterday has ended: It rains. The whole day we have soft westerly wind and the clouds are up to the water surface. The visibility is only a few hundred meters and only from time to time some dimly icebergs appeared in the fog. As further we go east, as stronger are the swell and the surf on the shore. After thirty kilometers we drive to a Fangsthus. To get to the beach we have to go through the two-meter-high surf. Markus and Elke are lucky and come ashore without damage. Benno's boat is raised by a high, steep wave, its bow undercuts and it is not possible to keep up the course with the tail rudder of the boat. He comes across the wave and … Ratzepalltuf. Fortunately, the water is already fat, nothing more happened and nothing is lost. When we reach the hut, we note that a wall may be broken by a polar bear. With boards lying around we mend the hole in the hut so that we can spend the evening and the night in the small, but dry cottage.

1.9.2014: In the storm

In the night the wind around the cabin begins to whistle. The announced storm from the northeast is there. When we open the door at six o´clock, it is clear that today no paddling is possible. We measure gusts with 9 Beaufort. That is storm. The day we spent mainly with sleep and walks on the beach. According to the weather forecast, the winds will also continue tomorrow. Our last chance to reach Ittoq and the plane on time, would be Wednesday.

1.9.2014: Time is running out

As we expected, this day the wind also holds all the time. We still measure 6 Beaufort. In the morning we will contact with Nanuk-Travel. We want to be picked up by motor boats. However, we have to pull our boat one kilometer across the sandbar to the west, since there is not as strong surf and motor boats can land there. During the day we dry our tents and other equipment and prepare us for the motor boat ride. We hope that the wind will decrease, so that we reach Ittoq tomorrow.

2.9.2014: Back in civilization

We need an hour in the morning to reach the agreed point at the west end of the sandbar. At 10.30 o´clock appear two small motor boats on the horizon. At our height, the fshermen look at the surf zone, still go a bit further and come back again. Since the fshermen do not want to land here, we signal that we paddle out to them. We get along well, though wet, through about a meter high surf and then move around from the kayaks in the fuctuating motor boats. When the fully loaded kayaks are drawn on the motor boats and lashed there begins a hot ride on the still high waves. In Hurry Fjord, we are glad that we have not attempted to paddle the last 30 km, because the waves are more than two meters high here and strong wind breaks a lot of waves. Again and again the boats crack into the deep valleys of the waves and we hope that the kayaks and the equipment as well ourselves will get no damage through the journey. After an hour we arrive completely frozen. In the well heated guest house we warm up ourselves with a cup of tea. Here we meet Bernhard again, who is back for several days. We begin with cleaning up the boats to dry the equipment and prepare everything for the return shipment. The evening and the end of this journey we celebrate with a festive fsh food that Bernhard cooked for us and a glass of red wine.


Meanwhile, we arrived are safe and sound, albeit exhausted at home again; Time for a short conclusion! 4 1/2 weeks exciting adventure behind us. With few exceptions, the weather meant it very well with us and so we could paddle around Milneland successfully. At 21 days we sat in the boat and covered a total distance of 550 km. We crossed one of the most spectacular scenery in Greenland with deep cut fjords, steep towering, snow-covered mountain slopes and countless glaciers that calve thousands of icebergs into the fjord. In the fully deserted region we could observe a lot of herds of musk oxen, watch the arctic hares playing, watching hunting polar foxes and did have experience with a polar bear directly at the camp.After this exhausting tour it is now the time for sorting and editing thousands of photos and hundreds of film clips. The individual blog posts have now also subsequently get images, because for sending images via satellite phone it is technically not possible due to the low transmission rates. From January 2015, we will be traveling with the presentation on this adventure. Time and date: At the end very special thanks to the team (Bernd Lindemann, Siegmund Schneider and Joachim Landrath) that has supplied us from Germany with the status of ice run and weather information, as well as it was allowed that this blog in German and English!